Track upgrading 2019-2025, all direct fast trains cancelled
The 350 km (220 mile) railway from Budapest to Belgrade is largely straight over flat terrain, but for decades speeds were slow and journey times long. A major upgrading project started in 2019 which will (I hope) raise line speed to 200 km/h and cut journey time to 3½ hours. In 2022, the Novi Sad to Belgrade section was completed and new 200 km/h trains introduced. The other sections will hopefully follow between now and 2025.
But until then, the line is basically blocked. All direct Budapest-Belgrade express trains are currently cancelled until at least 2025. You may wish to avoid this route until works are completed.
But in 2024, you can take the slow train from €22
In 2024, a new cross-border local service started between Szeged & Subotica, and the determined traveller can now get from Budapest to Belgrade (or vice versa) by rail if they don't mind a long and slow (but interesting) journey across Serbia with multiple changes. The train from Subotica to Novi Sad takes a local line which avoids the upgrading work on the main line.
Incidentally, if you've read Graham Greene's novel Stamboul Train, much of the action takes place when the Orient Express stops at Subotica. Subotica - pronounced Subboteetsa - is an interesting place to stop for a few hours, and the schedule gives time for lunch in both directions. If you take this route, feedback would be appreciated.
Budapest ► Belgrade
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Step 1, leave Budapest Nyugati at 05:50, change Szeged, arrive Subotica 10:24.
You take a Hungarian Intercity train from Budapest to Szeged, 1st & 2nd class with cafe-bar, then a local train from Szeged to Subotica, 2nd class only, no catering. Have lunch in Subotica, the town worth a look around.
Check these times at the Hungarian Railways website www.mavcsoport.hu.
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Step 2, leave Subotica at 15:05, arriving Novi Sad 18:41.
This is a local train, 2nd class only, no catering so bring your own supplies. An adventure across rural Serbia!
Check times at the Serbian Railways website w3.srbvoz.rs/redvoznje/en.
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Step 3, leave Novi Sad at 19:00 arriving Belgrade Centar at 19:36.
This is a 200 km/h air-conditioned double-deck SOKO train.
Check times at the Serbian Railways website w3.srbvoz.rs/redvoznje/en.
Belgrade ► Budapest
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Step 1, leave Belgrade Centar at 08:09, arriving Novi Sad at 08:45.
This is a 200 km/h air-conditioned double-deck SOKO train.
Check times at the Serbian Railways website w3.srbvoz.rs/redvoznje/en.
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Step 2, leave Novi Sad at 09:15, arriving Subotica 12:54.
This is a local train, 2nd class only, no catering.
Have lunch in Subotica, the town is worth a look around.
Check times at the Serbian Railways website w3.srbvoz.rs/redvoznje/en.
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Step 3, leave Subotica at 16:37, change at Szeged, arriving Budapest Nyugati 21:09.
Check these times at the Hungarian Railways website www.mavcsoport.hu.
Subotica to Szeged is by local train, 2nd class only, no catering. Szeged to Budapest is by express train, 2nd class only, no catering.
How much does it cost?
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Budapest-Subotica costs €25.80, fixed-price, any date.
Or save money by splitting the booking: Budapest-Szeged from €6 in advance or €10 standard price + Szeged-Subotica €5 standard price.
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Subotica-Novi Sad costs around €6.
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Novi Sad-Beograd costs around €5.
How to buy tickets
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Eastbound, buy a ticket from Budapest to Subotica at the Hungarian Railways website www.mavcsoport.hu.
Tip: After looking up the direct times it's cheaper to split the booking: Budapest-Szeged & Szeged-Subotica. Booking Budapest-Szeged separately also allows you to travel 1st class on this bit if you want.
Then buy tickets from Subotica to Belgrade at the station in Subotica, or use the Serbian Railways website webapi1.srbvoz.rs/ekarta/ to book Subotica to Novi Sad then Novi Sad to Belgrade. It's only available in Serbian, but easy enough with a little help from Google Translate.
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Westbound, buy a ticket from Belgrade to Subotica at Belgrade Centar. If they can sell to Szeged or Budapest great, but you'll probably have to buy a ticket from Subotica to Szeged at the station in Subotica, and buy a ticket from Szeged to Budapest either at the station in Szeged on in the MAV app on your phone.
Alternatively, buy a ticket from Belgrade to Novi Sad then Novi Sad to Subotica using the Serbian Railways website webapi1.srbvoz.rs/ekarta, it's only available in Serbian, but easy enough with a little help from Google Translate. Then book from Subotica to Budapest at the Hungarian Railways website www.mavcsoport.hu.
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Interrail & Eurail passes cover all these trains. A seat reservation is required between Budapest & Szeged, make this at the station in Budapest or Szeged. A seat reservation is required for 200 km/h SOKO trains between Novi Sad & Belgrade, around €1, make this at the station.
Serbian local train of the type used between Szeged & Subotica and Subotica & Novi Sad. They are air-conditioned, 2nd class only, with toilets. Courtesy of @AndyBTravels, DiscoverByRail.com.
Route map